Seven things you need to do on a quick tour of Slovenia - EUROPE SAYS
As Rennie Mackintosh is to Glasgow, Jože Plečnik is to Ljubljana. Born in the city, Plečnik studied in Vienna and left his mark on that city and Prague before returning home. From the more classical forms of. . .
As Rennie Mackintosh is to Glasgow, Jože Plečnik is to Ljubljana. Born in the city, Plečnik studied in Vienna and left his mark on that city and Prague before returning home. From the more classical forms of his many bridges across the Ljubljanica River and the Central Market, which overlooks the right bank, to the more modernist National Library, he created much of the city’s aesthetic. His home, Plečnik House, is now a museum with original furnishings throughout and a history of the mark he left on central Europe. For the keener architecture fans there are guided tours of Plečnik’s city. Central market (Image: Lorraine Wilson)Ljubljana CastleDominating the city skyline is Ljubljana Castle. A moderate climb for the moderately fit, there is a funicular to the summit for everyone else – you can walk back down. The original castle here dates back to the 11th century but like most castles it has been razed and rebuilt over the centuries of invasion. The latest refurbishment leaves an attractive complex of buildings and passages that can be explored without paying to enter the castle itself. There are free temporary exhibitions, one of the best views of the city and, for the foodies, Gostilna na Gradu offers Slovenian dishes but, being Michelin-awarded, it has that fine-dining twist. Read more:Ljubljana’s bridges by boatThe Ljubljanica River is narrow with gentle curves, perfect for a meander on a paddleboard or a small boat. Both banks of the river are close enough to view the architecture from a different perspective, with tourist boat trips sailing far enough out of the centre to show where locals come to enjoy the river. Boat ride to Bled island (Image: Lorraine Wilson)Taking a tour means a guide can provide more context to every bridge – and there are many. One of the oldest is the Cobblers’ Bridge and one of the newest the Butchers’ Bridge, with each having its own personality. Perhaps the most popular is the Dragon Bridge, guarded by four of the mythological creatures, which are an important part of the city’s folklore. A boat trip also provides the best view of Plečnik’s Triple Bridge with the rose-coloured Franciscan Church behind. Central MarketThe elegant colonnade of the Central Market is home to cafes and bars with outside spaces to enjoy a coffee or local beer, Union being the city’s favourite. Choose from a river view or look out on to the market square and up to the castle. Traditional food includes Štruklji, a rolled dough with savoury or sweet filling. Also try Prekmurska gibanica, a cake with as many layers as the chef can make stand up. The pastry is filo or strudel with apple, walnut, poppy seeds and cottage cheese. On Fridays from spring to autumn, the traditional market is joined by the Open Kitchen, with local and world foods until 9pm or even 10pm on longer summer days. Socialist ModernismSlovenia was the first to declare its independence from Yugoslavia in June 1991. When the Yugoslav army rolled in on June 27 to try to prevent further action, the Ten-Day War began. Slovenia’s secession was the least bloody, with around 70 to 80 lives lost. The reminders of its time as a socialist republic, part of Tito’s federation, are evident among the more graceful facades, particularly around Republic Square. The mid-20th century modernist buildings, the National Assembly and the city’s sprawling Maxi department store, surround the vast open space. To its rear is the Cankarjev dom cultural centre, built in the 1970s and offering well-priced tickets for performances such as the Slovenian Philharmonic. Slascicarna (Image: Lorraine Wilson)Prešeren SquarePrešeren Square and its classical buildings feels like stepping further back in time than Republic Square. Sitting on the river’s left bank, it is the main square and gateway to the Old Town via the Triple Bridge. Although it’s called a square, it’s actually circular, designed by Edvard Ravnikar, who was a student of Plečnik. The design means that aimlessly wandering the city will show that all roads seem to lead to Prešeren Square. There is a café on the square but you can park yourself around the Prešeren Monument, which features Slovene national poet France Prešeren, along with a muse. Even on the busiest days it is a relaxed place to sit and people-watch – everyone ends up here. Day trip to Lake BledPerhaps the most widely shared image of Slovenia is the fairytale island in the middle of Lake Bled. It’s about an hour away from the capital by car, bus or train. Taking the train means catching a bus opposite Lesce Bled station for the short journey to the lakeside. Give yourself the full day to walk around the lake, take a traditional pletna boat ride to the island, hike up to the castle, or during the summer, take the chairlift up Straža Hill and hold on tight as you toboggan back down. If that sounds too much like hard work, have a quiet stroll around the lake and pick your spot at Café Park for kremšnita, the Bled cream cake of layered puff pastry, vanilla cream and custard. It’s messy eating, but it’s worth it. If you don’t make it to Bled, you’ll find it in Ljubljana (Slaščičarna has a particularly good one) but it’s worth the trip to enjoy it in context. easyJet flies twice weekly on Wednesday and Saturday from Edinburgh to Ljubljana. www. visitljubljana. com